Jean-Luc Van Den Heede's recent problem with his lower tang pulling down through the mast after a severe knockdown during the GGR got me thinking about the loads the lower tangs see. I've heard of example's of the tang bolt or tang breaking but this failure mode is less common and it acts as a useful data point for the loads in a rollover, Since the rest of the rig survived we can narrow down the loads and failure points.
This is a rough drawing of the setup he had, plenty of unknowns but I have made some educated guesses
8mm rigging wire
16mm tang bolt
4.8mm Monel rivets
8mm wire fails at around 4.6 tonnes . Since there are two shrouds the maximum load would be unlikely to have exceeded 9.2 tonnes and was probably a lot less than this. But the wire yields and would begin to show permanent elongation at approximately half the breaking strain, or in this case a total load of 4.6 tonnes, though it is unlikely the load is evenly shared between both shrouds.
The failure mode was the tang bolt pulling down through the mast 50mm on one side, presumably the rivets must have sheared off and all the load went onto the aluminium wall.
Here is the results from a quick spreadsheet I knocked up.
So if we assume a 16mm tang bolt we see that its Shear strength is about 5.7 tonnes. But since it is in Double shear due to the external strap it should be able to take about twice that load, more than enough to cope with the maximum shroud load to failure.
Look now at the bearing strength of a 4mm wall section mast, It yields at 2.5 tonnes and fails at 3.9 tonnes. The other side attached by 7 rivets fails at between 2.3 and 3.8 tonnes depending on the size of the rivet. (rivet breaking loads from Stanley). There is also likely to be some clamping force helping to secure the plate to the mast, but this is very hard to calculate.
My guess is that the mast wall yielded slightly, putting more of the load on the rivets. this may have happened earlier, as the mast yields at a reasonably low load. When she got knocked down the Pop rivets sheared placing the full load onto the mast wall which tore down, exceeding its bearing stress. the load may also have permanently stretched the wire, and in his latest phone call, he mentions the D2 (Diagonal 2's, discontinuous intermediate shrouds) needed tightening indicating they also may have yielded slightly. I am guessing they are 7mm wire so 3.5 tonne break, 1.8 tonne yield.
We can also see the required wall thickness to support the full load of the bolt alone, in the case of a 16mm bolt we would need a 9.1mm thick bearing surface, but if it's in single shear you would need to upsize to a 19mm tang bolt and make the wall 11mm thick to match the strength of the shrouds.
This mast was absolutely bulletproof for all normal sailing loads, but the incredible shock loads placed on the mast when it hit the water found the weakest parts.
Of course, the failure of the mast wall may have relived the loads enough to prevent the shrouds from failing. Perhaps if the tang had been stronger the whole rig might have been lost?
I am not an engineer, I do have some basic tech school training in these types of calculations (1.5 years at Polytechnic studying a diploma in mechanical engineering and drafting) but not enough to be happy if you use these figures to design anything without first having them checked by a Qualified and competent engineer. Also working with figures past yield or maximum design stress is not good practice. To really nut out what happened the mast needs to be analysed and the calculations made with much more advanced non-linear techniques like FEA.
I'd be interested to hear any real engineers comments and observations.
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Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Maintenance. Show all posts
Wednesday, November 14, 2018
Monday, April 11, 2011
A tale of woe... Oh and RAIN
Well It's raining outside, and I have antifouling to put on Snow Petrel... Forecast - rain on and off for the rest of the week. I should have put the paint on yesterday morning before the rain started, but I hadn't primed any of the bare metal patches (only some small pinholes 1-2mm diameter) so I did that instead.
So now if I can get the bottom dry enough for one coat of antifouling I will be right. If not well, I'd rather not think about that, be positive, you know.
On the plus side I have taken off the tiller and planed it back and reshaped it. It has always been a bit of a hefty lump of wood. Rather ugly but strong. I have never gotten around to doing anything about it because I want a telescopic fancy aluminium tiller so I have always seen this as a temporary tiller. Anyway I decided I needed to have at least one nice looking thing to cheer me up and I have planed it down to a nice shape and started varnishing it. As soon as I started planing it I realised they did a nice job of laminating the tiller with alternating light and dark strips... WOW it's going to look great. I have put alot more taper into it and it will fit the hand better then the original old lump of wood.
I have spent alot of time investigating stray currents because they may be the cause of some of the failure of the base layers of paint. I think that it is mostly due to the old age of the bottom paint and million layers of old antifouling but I want to eliminate any stray currents before I strip all the paint of and start again. It would be heart breaking go to all the trouble of doing this and then find the new paint coming off as well... So if anyone has any tips on a good stray current meter or using a multimeter to find leaks let me know. Some interesting sites on stray currents; this one seems very good, Yacht survey - and I would like to find out more about these meters and if they are any good or just a dressed up multimeter (I have heard one fellow around here swear by them). What other options are out there for testing? I guess my anodes have started working for the first time in 7 years or so so that makes me slightly suspicious. But they still aren't working hard.
I also would like to hear from anyone with information about sandblasting vs. mechanically cleaning with a sander. Or other options such as ultra-high pressure water blasting, soda or dry ice blasting. More research for me before the next slip in six-eight months time...
Anyway the sun is peaking out... time to head down to the boat
Cheers
Ben
BTW what does the rest of the world call coming out of the water, we call it slipping the boat.
So now if I can get the bottom dry enough for one coat of antifouling I will be right. If not well, I'd rather not think about that, be positive, you know.
On the plus side I have taken off the tiller and planed it back and reshaped it. It has always been a bit of a hefty lump of wood. Rather ugly but strong. I have never gotten around to doing anything about it because I want a telescopic fancy aluminium tiller so I have always seen this as a temporary tiller. Anyway I decided I needed to have at least one nice looking thing to cheer me up and I have planed it down to a nice shape and started varnishing it. As soon as I started planing it I realised they did a nice job of laminating the tiller with alternating light and dark strips... WOW it's going to look great. I have put alot more taper into it and it will fit the hand better then the original old lump of wood.
![]() |
| It's amazing what hides under the old grey wood... |
I have spent alot of time investigating stray currents because they may be the cause of some of the failure of the base layers of paint. I think that it is mostly due to the old age of the bottom paint and million layers of old antifouling but I want to eliminate any stray currents before I strip all the paint of and start again. It would be heart breaking go to all the trouble of doing this and then find the new paint coming off as well... So if anyone has any tips on a good stray current meter or using a multimeter to find leaks let me know. Some interesting sites on stray currents; this one seems very good, Yacht survey - and I would like to find out more about these meters and if they are any good or just a dressed up multimeter (I have heard one fellow around here swear by them). What other options are out there for testing? I guess my anodes have started working for the first time in 7 years or so so that makes me slightly suspicious. But they still aren't working hard.
I also would like to hear from anyone with information about sandblasting vs. mechanically cleaning with a sander. Or other options such as ultra-high pressure water blasting, soda or dry ice blasting. More research for me before the next slip in six-eight months time...
Anyway the sun is peaking out... time to head down to the boat
Cheers
Ben
BTW what does the rest of the world call coming out of the water, we call it slipping the boat.
Friday, April 8, 2011
A long time...
I just looked at the date of the last post and realised what a long time it's been since I last posted. Well I kind of knew it has been a long time, and I have written two big posts (and re-written them at least three times), But for certain reasons (which I may or may not reveal) I have not posted them yet... sorry.
So I am kind of firing this off to let you know I am still alive. (I am) But I did have abit of a fright the other night, seeing lots of water in the bilge I tasted it to see if it was fresh or salt, (kind of more fresh, not salty so had another taste to check) and looked for the leak. I couldn't find any leak anywhere so I pumped it out and went home...
Light-bulb moment at 10pm, cooling water from engine, antifreeze... toxic? Panic google search YES IT IS TOXIC!! !@#$%
Anyway to cut along story short Karen drove me down (I was suffering from extreme hypochondriac syndrome) I got some samples from the bilge and some salt water I stuck them both in the freezer and they both froze OK. Also the Cooling water was still full and very green (the bilge water wasn't green) so I think I am not going to die (from that anyway). Many lessons learnt here, many that I should have learnt when I was two, like don't swallow anything unknown.
But seriously I was surprised that 30mls or so of antifreeze can be fatal, but relived that the cure was strong alcohol... so I decided I'd better have lots of the cure just in case.
As well as rewriting posts and trying to poison myself I have just put Snow Petrel up on the slip (the hard? for you Americans). I decided to try slipping her closer to town this time (Kettering where I keep her is 40 mins drive away). So I had to sail her up. With all the weed on the bottom it took much longer than I had planed, and had to motor sail to keep her moving... very sad... It got dark and I learnt that my masthead light wasn't working... Another job to do...
Anyway today she went up and after three hours on the end of a water blaster all the flora and fauna making their unwelcome home on the bottom of my boat were evicted and the bottom was clean (it was pretty bad, kind of glad I don't have a photo...). The reason for such bad fouling, paint detachment - the epoxy paint sealing the old antifouling away is starting to fail badly after 6 years, and much of the 18 year build-up of paint was blistered and loose, with weed growing through any cracks.
So really I think this means a sandblast job to remove the assorted antifouling paint build up on the bottom. Unless any of you have any better ideas... While I am at it I should make all those modifications to the boat underwater that I have planned. I will get around to describing some of these in later posts.
Cheers
Ben
So I am kind of firing this off to let you know I am still alive. (I am) But I did have abit of a fright the other night, seeing lots of water in the bilge I tasted it to see if it was fresh or salt, (kind of more fresh, not salty so had another taste to check) and looked for the leak. I couldn't find any leak anywhere so I pumped it out and went home...
Light-bulb moment at 10pm, cooling water from engine, antifreeze... toxic? Panic google search YES IT IS TOXIC!! !@#$%
Anyway to cut along story short Karen drove me down (I was suffering from extreme hypochondriac syndrome) I got some samples from the bilge and some salt water I stuck them both in the freezer and they both froze OK. Also the Cooling water was still full and very green (the bilge water wasn't green) so I think I am not going to die (from that anyway). Many lessons learnt here, many that I should have learnt when I was two, like don't swallow anything unknown.
But seriously I was surprised that 30mls or so of antifreeze can be fatal, but relived that the cure was strong alcohol... so I decided I'd better have lots of the cure just in case.
As well as rewriting posts and trying to poison myself I have just put Snow Petrel up on the slip (the hard? for you Americans). I decided to try slipping her closer to town this time (Kettering where I keep her is 40 mins drive away). So I had to sail her up. With all the weed on the bottom it took much longer than I had planed, and had to motor sail to keep her moving... very sad... It got dark and I learnt that my masthead light wasn't working... Another job to do...
Anyway today she went up and after three hours on the end of a water blaster all the flora and fauna making their unwelcome home on the bottom of my boat were evicted and the bottom was clean (it was pretty bad, kind of glad I don't have a photo...). The reason for such bad fouling, paint detachment - the epoxy paint sealing the old antifouling away is starting to fail badly after 6 years, and much of the 18 year build-up of paint was blistered and loose, with weed growing through any cracks.
So really I think this means a sandblast job to remove the assorted antifouling paint build up on the bottom. Unless any of you have any better ideas... While I am at it I should make all those modifications to the boat underwater that I have planned. I will get around to describing some of these in later posts.
Cheers
Ben
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